How to Successfully Root Fig Cuttings: A Step-by-Step Guide

I recently purchased a cutting from the fig that was part of the original 'Godfather' movie. In an effort to make the movie as realistic as possible a fig variety from Sicily, where fictional character Don Corleone hailed from, was brought onto the set. The fig makes a background appearance in the garden when Don Corleone suffers a heart attack. This a great and memorable story for those visiting my garden, and for me it is what gardening is all about - a way to share stories about plants and the people that have loved and preserved them, as well as the heritage and history plants have helped create.

Vegetative propagation, such as hardwood cutting propagation, is a valuable skill for any gardener to be familiar with. Not only can you source interesting plants, you can also save money by starting your own from cuttings.

Sourcing Cuttings

Purchasing cuttings should always be done through a reputable source. Two online stores I have sourced from include Pro Fig USA and Tinkerbug Figs, and there are many other retailers available. Sourcing from online sources improves cultivar selection and can provide you with some rare and interesting specimens (such as the 'Godfather' variety listed above).

Reputable companies will also guarantee the health of their cuttings. Fig mosaic virus is a viral disease that will cause mottling, mosaic patterns on leaves, stunting, poor production, and eventual decline and death. There is no cure for this disease, so starting with healthy cuttings is non-negotiable.

Mottling is a classic sign of Fig mosaic virus.

If sourcing cuttings from a neighbor or friend, make sure to examine the plant for any potential disease. Cuttings can be taken during pruning in early spring. Look for pencil sized, or larger, pieces of wood. Take note of which side is up and down. I usually cut my down (toward the ground) side flat and the up side at an angle so that I can easily remember what side to stick into the soil. There is a trick to figuring out what side is up and down in fig cuttings mentioned in "The Rooting Process" section below.

Supplies Needed

Figs, when actively growing can be rooted in water easily. You can simply add a cutting to a glass of water and roots should form within a few weeks. Once roots are formed, plants can be potted into containers with a light-weight potting mix.

For dormant cuttings, which is what you are likely to get if ordering from an online retailer, you should root in soil. You will need:

• Soil-less, light weight potting medium. A seed starting mix is ideal. The soil should be moistened but not saturated. Cuttings rooted in overly wet soil will rot.

• Clean containers. I use a 4-inch plastic container. You can also root in heavy weight plastic bags.

• Clean and sharp hand pruners. You will need to trim the cuttings just before planting.

• Rooting hormone. This is not necessary, but does help to get root buds forming on the cuttings. I used Garden Safe TakeRoot Rooting Hormone, but any rooting hormone should work just fine.

• Grafting tape. This is wrapped on the above ground portion of the cutting to prevent drying. This is usually a paraffin coated tape, but a very thin plastic grafting tape is also available. I tried the plastic tape and have no complaints about it.

• Plastic bags with twist ties or rubber bands. I used a large plastic bag to place the potted cuttings in. I closed the bag around the cutting and used a twist tie (or a rubber band) to secure. This will retain soil moisture and reduce the need to water.

• Heat mat. A heat mat to warm the soil will speed the process along and is advised. Temperature should be between 70-75 Fahrenheit.

• Light. A full spectrum LED light will be needed once buds start to emerge on the cuttings. As buds open, photosynthesis will increase and will also help supply carbohydrates for developing roots and shoots.

The Rooting Process

Once cuttings are obtained and supplies gathered, it is time to get the rooting process started. Fill your containers with potting mix that is moistened but not wet. It should be wet to the touch, but you shouldn't be able to squeeze much water out of the soil.

Orient. If you ordered figs from an online retailer, the up and down orientation of the cuttings may not be marked. To figure out which side goes in the soil, simply look at the buds. It is said that the bud smiles at you. A semi-circle that resembles a smiling mouth sits underneath the bud - buds up, with smile below is the correct orientation of the cutting (see photo). If you stick the cuttings into the soil upside down, the cuttings will fail to root.

Note the half circle smile below the bud.

Cut. I shorten my cuttings to keep the amount of tissue requiring water and light to a minimum. One bud should be placed below the soil. Roots will likely form from this bud. I leave two buds above the soil and remove any extra wood. This allows for two buds to start the growth process above ground.

Wrap. Between the bud that will be placed in the soil and the first above ground bud, start to warp around the cutting with the grafting tape. Wrap upward and cover the top cut of the cutting. This will prevent the cutting from drying out during the rooting process. Once buds start to swell and the cutting has rooted, you can either remove the tape or allow the bud to break through the tape.

You can see the grafting tape wrap starts above the soil line. Orange bumps visible where the soil is are the beginnings of roots forming.

Dip and stick. Dip the cutting in rooting hormone and then stick the cutting into the potting mix so the bottom bud is covered with soil up to the grafting tape.

Bag. Place a bag around the pot and secure to the cutting. This will help keep the soil moisture at a constant level and reduce the need for watering. You will want to check the soil moisture weekly. Add a small amount of water to the cuttings as needed.

Warm. Place the potted cuttings onto the heat mat and wait. Check the cuttings for rooting after two weeks by lightly tugging on the cutting. Resistance is a good sign of rooting. Once rooted and signs of bud swell are noted, add a light to promote photosynthesis and remove the bags from around the containers (check the soil moisture frequently). Grafting tape can also be removed once buds have started to break and leaves are beginning to emerge.

Growing On

Plants can be left on heat mats to promote root formation. Once roots have substantially formed, remove from the heat mat (you will see about 50% of the growing medium filled with roots). Water as needed - weekly to twice a week depending on establishment and temperature. Add a light, water soluble fertilizer to the irrigation water monthly once leaves have emerged. As the plants become established and roots form, pot up to a larger sized container as needed. Plants should be hardened off over a period of two weeks and temperatures above 50 Fahrenheit before moving out in containers or planting outdoors.

What the final set up looks like.

Close up of the root buds (orange structures) forming on the cutting. The white residue is the rooting hormone powder.

Roots beginning to form on a 'Godfather' cutting.

Can Figs Grow in Utah?

Absolutely! I have been growing figs for years in Utah. They do well with some specific care, so spending the time rooting a cutting or planting a potted start, is worth it's weight in fresh figs. The fruit is plentiful, delicious, and excellent for your health. A peer-reviewed journal article published in Nutrients in 2023 took a deep dive into the benefits of figs and found they contain:

"A diverse array of bioactive components, including flavonoids, phenolic acids, carotenoids, and tocopherols, which have been used for centuries in traditional medicine for their health-promoting effects addressing gastrointestinal, respiratory, inflammatory, metabolic, and cardiovascular issues."

There are two options for planting when adding figs into your garden:

1. Plant in the soil. You can plant figs in-ground and leave them there to overwinter. This requires some special care during the cold winter months. Just before the first freeze, plants will need to be wrapped. I usually wrap my plants with fiberglass batting (yes, you read that correctly) - the thickest product, with a high R-value is what I look for. Any open spaces in the batting then get filled with straw. On top of the batting, I wrap the whole plant with 6 mil greenhouse plastic and secure with baling twine. This wrap stays in place until mid to late April in my area. A note about this method. I learned this from an Italian gentleman located in northern Utah. He smuggled two fig cuttings that he tucked into his socks through customs 30 years ago when entering the country. The figs were potted and planted at his new home where today they are over two-stories tall and quite old. They bear a ridiculous amount of figs and each fall he wraps the branches of the now-trees with fiberglass batting and greenhouse plastic. It is a sight to behold!
   

2. Plant in containers. This requires simply moving plants to a cool location that will not freeze, usually some time in October. The idea is to expose the plants to a temperature around 50-degrees and enter a dormant-like state, but not get so cold that the above ground tissues die back to the ground. A garage or cellar is an excellent location. In this state, plants can be watered roughly monthly. If you choose to place plants in a heated location, be sure to provide light (full-spectrum LED or a very bright south-facing window) and watering will be needed on a more frequent basis (usually weekly).

Recommended Cultivars

For planting outdoors, select the hardiest cultivars. These include:

• Chicago Hardy, consistently withstands temperatures to 0 F. I have grown this variety outdoors with winter protection for years and it is an excellent performer.

• Brown Turkey, once mature this plant can survive -10 F and still be quite productive. (I purchased a plant last year and so far, so good.)

• Teramo, very similar to Chicago Hardy.

• Florea, commonly grown in cold climates such as Bulgaria, Hungary and Germany. (I just rooted cuttings for this cultivar.)

• St. Martin, said to withstand temperatures up to -10 F.

For containers that will be brought into a protected location during the winter, any variety will do.